I'm looking for my first board. A close family member has offered to sponser it as my birthday present (let's just say it's a round number somewhere around the middle of life )
I am 6'1" (186cm) and about 75kg (160lb).
I grew up in LA, mostly at the beach, on a skateboard, etc. I learned how to surf, but only just barely - I got as far as learning to paddle and pop up on a learner log a few times. That was almost 20 years ago. I can still get by on a skateboard (was never a shredder, prefer cruising and doing more simple stuff, going with the flow), so all hope isn't lost for me catching some waves
So today I'm still in good physical shape and very active (most people think I'm 10 years younger than I am), and living in a place where there are waves... North Atlantic (cold) ones, not as much power as what I was used to in LA, but some nice breaks averaging 1-4 meters in general (3-15 feet). Short rides usually. Both beach and point breaks.
I plan on taking classes through the local shop (on their foam longboards), and I have a few more experienced surfing friends who are willing to help me learn. The resident shop surf expert recommended a hybrid (fun, egg or mini-mal) at around 7'6 and 2 1/2 - 3 for my size. Due to the short breaks and lower power swells, he didn't recommend anything shorter/lighter, as long as I planned on actually surfing each time I head for the beach. I'll probably be surfing primarily in the summer.
So I'm not looking for a learner-board per se (that's what the shops rental boards are for), but a board I can continue on after getting the basics down.
Being from LA, and getting into surfing at mid-life, I'd naturally like 2 things -
1. to get a board from a local LA shaper (LA/Ventura/OC/SD area)
2. to get a board I can grow into as I learn more, enjoy and appreciate as both a beginner and later intermediate surfer. Due to time and family I don't anticipate ever getting to the point where I'll be ripping on a shortboard, although maybe one day in the distant future I might be temped to try a fish....
Any/all advice is appreciated.
The T man