by LucasG » Sat Aug 16, 2008 3:30 pm
by isaluteyou » Sat Aug 16, 2008 5:48 pm
by the.ronin » Sat Aug 16, 2008 6:11 pm
isaluteyou wrote:... the trick lies with wave knowledge/choice something you learn as you get more experienced. So just get out the surf observe and it will come
by isaluteyou » Sat Aug 16, 2008 6:15 pm
 Not sure if those terms are used anymore but growing up we called breaks going against the grain "backdoors" and "boneyards" were the other side of point breaks most people dont surf (usually too rocky).
by Thibb » Sun Aug 17, 2008 1:45 am
LucasG wrote:Whenever I stand up, pretty much right there the wave is breaking on my back and most of the time it just wipes me out. Is there any type of specific thing you should look for when catching a wave and seeing to what side to turn in order to move towards the non-broken part of the wave?
by LucasG » Sun Aug 17, 2008 3:00 am
Thibb wrote:LucasG wrote:Whenever I stand up, pretty much right there the wave is breaking on my back and most of the time it just wipes me out. Is there any type of specific thing you should look for when catching a wave and seeing to what side to turn in order to move towards the non-broken part of the wave?
Sounds like the problem is not so much about deciding which way to go, but about where to start. If you are surfing dumping waves, like you seem to be suggesting when you say they break on your back, then you need to consider if they are dumping along the entire length at once (closing-out) or if there is a part that breaks before the rest.
If it is a close-out, there is not much you can do except try to get up sooner and surf for a couple of seconds before it breaks. If you see it breaking at a certain point before it breaks anywhere else, then try not to take off right there. Either move over just a little bit and try to ride the shoulder and surf away from the breaking part, or just move down the beach to an entirely different spot where the wave is breaking less quickly (away from the sandbank).
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