A Newbies Guide for Newbies

[rich r]

A shoulder is the tail-end of a wave away from the peak. So the first part that breaks is the peak. It then (if it is not a closeout) peals down, breaking down to the left and/or right. The shoulder is the part of the wave that is just starting to become the 'face' of the wave - away from the breaking section, and past the main section of the face.

And yes, a reform is after the wave breaks, sometimes there is an inside section that it doubles up again and starts to break all over again like a brand new wave, although typically a bit smaller and less powerful than the first.

I'm still trying to figure out if 'guiding your board over the wave' means that the wave hasn't broken, and you're just floating over it before it breaks, you're right where the wave is breaking, or you're guiding the board over whitewash after the wave breaks.

The best situation would be the first. Sitting on your board, you won't get pushed in by the wave. Unless the wave is actually in the process of breaking, it will not carry you forward.

If you're pearling a lot still, then you need to work on your positioning of where you are laying on your board. I guarantee that you will not consistently lay on your board the same way and in the same place if you are jumping on the board from standing in the water. there just isn't enough time to get on the board, adjust, confirm, and then paddle to catch the wave. I also suspect because you are jumping on, it's at the 'last second' which contributes to you pearling, as you have little forward motion, the wave is already starting to break, and it will be pulling your tail up as it crashes as opposed to pushing you forward.

And as DBBB said, you get a much better perspective of the waves from a sitting position, and will better evaluate wave dynamics than from a standing or laying position. It may not seem to make a difference at first, but a small change in vertical perspective makes a huge difference.

[RJD]

You will have to adjust your position on the board to the waev size/shape a little but typicaly you want to be in the same spot all the time.

And I cant stress this enough bu if its safe enough to do so get out back and catch clean waves. reforms/white water can only take you so far.

Yeah mebe you wont get out back this time, mebe next time you wont catch a wave, the time after mebe you will.

AAs for pearling, on a clean wave takeoff IMO getting to your feet early and having a sligth angle is more important than being in the perfect spot on the board - you've a ton more controll once your on your feet.

And if your in such a bad spot on the board you wont catch a wave anyow, too far back and you'll stall, too far forward and you'll pearl right off or go nowhere.

[phillwilson]

Hey up all...

Rich, DBBB....... you would be so proud....I got the balls and went to the outside!!! hehe....and the fact I am writing this means that I didnt drift away to sea like i had worried about after all!!


actually mucho thanks to waves member ChasingDaylight who came with me and kinda give me the bravado factor to nudge me out of my comfort zone!!

it wasnt in anyway a big wave night so I ended up sat on my board waiting around too, am starting to see the benifits of it as opposed to standing on the inside.

question though... how do you swing from sitting to being in the right position on the board for catching waves in time??

I was finding most of my attempts went something like ..sees wave in distance...wobbles about and nearly falls off board...swings legs round and nearly hits chin on board..finds self about a foot too far up the board..wiggles down the board..begins paddling ...xxxxx the waves have all gone!! ----any tips ??

Voodoocol, glad that you like the thread, if you ever fancy paddling out once this drought has gone , give me a PM, im free most evenings after 4.30 and friday sat and sunday days (yer i love my job too)

Im off up to Tynemouth this weekend so will have plenty to talk about with new waves to experiance and all that.

any good surf shops up that way? i figure Im going to need some thin/mid gloves soon

[rich r]

Paddle out and practice going from sitting to laying down. It's going to take practice. but you'll have much better balance and understanding of your board.

Basically, while sitting, grab the board with your hands where you would have them placed for popping up. Then, swing your legs up behind and under you, so your waist down to your feet are straight laying on the board. you should be in paddle position.

Of course, you may need to adjust back/forward (even I still do), but once you get into the rhythm, it'll only be an inch either way and you'll do it subconsciously by feel eventually.

While your sitting, swirling your legs counter-clockwise and you'll spin clockwise. Spin your legs in circles clockwise and you'll turn counter.

This is a good way to spin facing the beach when you see a wave coming.

[RJD]

If you lean back on your board when sitting bring it from in front of you to verticle, use your legs as above and then drop it back down once you've turned.

i.e. dont turn it flat it'll takes more effort/time

Grats for getting out back, it can be scary at first but its better than being in the impact zone all the time and you can just chill untill a wave you fancy comes along.

[LeeM]

Just to add a note to RJD's post. Once you are sitting outside and want to catch the wave, slide back on the board so the nose is out of the water at about a 45 degree angle. Hold on with your seeward hand and use your shoreward hand to pull the board around, use your legs to eggbeat too.

Now that your back's to the wave, reach up with your free hand and grab the board at the same level as the other hand and pull the board down while you get your chest down into your balanced position on the board. The board will float up and forward, giving a little head start.

I ususally double paddle once then start stroking. This gives you almost a no paddle take off.

[phillwilson]

wow, dynamite stuff once more peeps!!

this is really makeing sense now, I am having a mini surf trip starting with Cayton tonight, we then drove up to newcastle and are are going to hopefully take in south shields tomorrow and then grab another up north spot near Newcastle on saturday. ...any ideas?

tonight was relentless at cayton with the waves breaking very shallow and comng in very small intervals.

I only made it out beyond the breaking waves a few times as they just kept messing me up but i went and had a good ol sit out back caught my breath and lo...the stirring motion legs worked really well to turn faster then i had been doing. RJD and Leem I only just read your pointers but they both seem to make a lot of sense and i think i might have been doing it a bit like that just be trail and error but will deffo add the angled board and stylin' dismount into the mix tomorrow.

another interesting question is, im starting to try and turn more times then not as i ride ...is there a side i should try first?

i have heard from others that riding with your face to the wave is easiest to start but for some reason i find my back is the bit that wants to go to the wave to i im riding back handed lefts?!?i think?? is this a bad idea or do i just go with what feels natural

Phill

Oh YER..the guide bit..........tonights lesson for me after getting trashed directly downwards on a lot of waves is...if you have a longboard ...use its pick up anything capabilitys... grab the little just-starting-to-be waves... as soon as i started paddling for the ones my brain had dismissed as too small i found that as i was already moving along infront, they where getting big enought to get me up without being so big they throw me bottomward. the ones i had been going for at first where too far gone and steep by the time they reached the point where i had paddled to.

[RJD]

another interesting question is, im starting to try and turn more times then not as i ride ...is there a side i should try first?

i have heard from others that riding with your face to the wave is easiest to start but for some reason i find my back is the bit that wants to go to the wave to i im riding back handed lefts?!?i think?? is this a bad idea or do i just go with what feels natural

Phill

Oh YER..the guide bit..........tonights lesson for me after getting trashed directly downwards on a lot of waves is...if you have a longboard ...use its pick up anything capabilitys... grab the little just-starting-to-be waves... as soon as i started paddling for the ones my brain had dismissed as too small i found that as i was already moving along infront, they where getting big enought to get me up without being so big they throw me bottomward. the ones i had been going for at first where too far gone and steep by the time they reached the point where i had paddled to.

1st wave direction.

Your taking off away from the breaking part. If its breaking to your right take off left, and vv.

If you're at a spot with peaks breaking either way then position yourself for whichever way you want to go, you need to practice both anyhow.

As for larger and steeper waves/takeoffs, he key is getting to your feet early and getting ready for that turn, also being angled on takeoff slightly.

[surferdude_scarborough]

its good to practice gooing both directions and backside is generally harder so this is a good thing to practice. frontside will come pretty naturally. watching surfers who only go one way is quite funny. especially when they take off on a left and try to go right.

oh and dont bother getting thin gloves. no point. wait for as long as you can bear without gloves then get some about 3mm ones. they should see you through the winter.

[phillwilson]

well today was GREAT!!! pulled into Tynemouth and found it was full of surf school and kids on their hols all crammed on a very small break so we moved on after initially being worried as we where finding smaller and smaller waves, we found a complete HEAVEN of a beach (I wont mention it because it seemed deliberatly secret)...there was just us and a nice Geordie who was giving me some pointers.
think I might head back there tomorrow too...good times.

I know what ur saying about the winter ones..but that was what i was after more or less...the ones ive got are a rediculous 6mm that i got when i was still just stabbing in the dark as for what to buy.

they are crazzzy i cant even close my fingers.

just a question for you guys in the know...

I have been trying to follow the...take off at an angle on steeper waves,.. advice and everytime i try it my board gets shoved sidewards by the wave and it tips me off with the board ending up sideward in the wave and on top of me....grrrr help!!

[RJD]

Were only talking about a small angle, 5-10 degrees mebe.

and you have to get to yout feet quickly and early.

Nice findon the spot too!

[rich r]

Taking off on an angle - it shouldn't be a crazy angle. As RJD said.. you should still be pointing at the beach, just a little off to the left or right instead of directly straight.

[phillwilson]

Well, its back to work and from a great weekend mini tour!!

after my secret spot find on the friday I decided to try South Shields on the Saturday.

It was so windy that i could stand with my longboard pressing against my chest with no arms supporting it!! and it was cross shore ...but I had a fun and challenging sesh with powerful waves dragging my all over the spot, ended up about half a mile from where I got in and decided to call it a day....my board seemed to really "like" these big powerful conditions and i had my fastest upright ride to date.

Sunday..I couldn't resist a last sesh at my lil place.. the waves where quite choppy by comparison to the first day there but I was now armed with my angled take off info and I had great fun (unsuccessful so far but hey im learnin) trying it out.

rich...rjd...you have no idea how much I was getting that wrong..thank god for forums!! I was kinda at the angle that you would ride down the line of the wave at......no wonder i was getting rolled by every wave!!!

Im back to E Yorks and its looking pretty rubbish til weekend and then Im away at leeds fest.. could be a while before i get in again....already starting to get pangs!!

[Katsura]

Hi Phil, cheers for sharing the experience. As a beginner, it is reassuring to know some of the mistakes I've made was repeated by others when they are learning too .

Keep up the post!

P.S> I'm quite into photography, so I found your story from page 1 quite amusing

I started this thread cos I remember what it was like at the start of my Photography career, I talked to the local pros who all said nothing less then a 17mp camera with ultra high grade lenses and 4 professional flash blocks would do...then I got advice from some people who where only a year or so into the business..they scled stuff down in a way that made it real and attainable for me ...no doubt the others where technically right in their idea of "the best" but two years on and Im still making a living at my work where as I would still be saving if I hadnt had the opinion of those just a few rungs up the ladder.

What they say an equipment whore;s equipment evovles goes like this:
Stage 1. start up a mass market digital compact, because you want it small and light and can slot it in your pocket.
Stage 2. that digi compact no longer satisfies your needs - your best friend have got a 10x zoom bridge camera, so you muxt get that 15x zoom latest model.
Stage 3. compact and bridge don't give you the quality you feel you need for your holiday shot of kids and the inlaws, so you want a digital SLR.
Stage 4. all the pros seem to be using Canon 1Ds MKIII, that's a REAL professional piece, if you want to be as good, you have to be on levelling playgrounds.
Stage 5. The pros all have f2.8 ultra grade lens, you buy more lens for your SLR.
Stage 6. You buy even more lens.
Stage 7. You buy even more lens.
Stage 8. You realise all the lens and the SLR body weights 25 kg and is breaking your back on your outing to the local zoo, so you take less and less pictures.
Stage 9. The REAL masters use range finders, you sell everything you own and goes to buy a Leica.
Stage 10. You found your pictures still suck, you complains on various forums, and quits taking photos forever, but still shows off your Leica to friends.

Unfortunately a lot of people gets too stuck in with what eqipment they are using, rather than how to take better photos.

I love the quote "You take good photos with that head behind the camera body, not the lens in front of it".

Sorry about the non-surfing related rant but it is almost zen to think it's kinda like choosing a beginner's board .

[Sykes]

Wow, great thread.

I'm learning too, mate, and loving every minute of it. A little bit further back on the learning curve than you, I think, but isn't it amazing how, as you continue to surf, the little things start clicking into place and fitting together so you get a little bit better (and fitter) every time you go out? What a great sport.

Btw, you UK surfers are amazing. I'm not certain I'd stick with it if I had to surf in the freaking North Atlantic as opposed to my nice, warm, Gulf of Mexico (water temp 86 degrees fahrenheit atm).

The Stoke is everywhere, just waiting to be found, it seems

[tree4]

Hi Phil.

Now I've joined the forum, I can post a thank you for your inspiring post.

Time (lack of) is my biggest enemy so I don't think I'm going to progress as fast as you.

BTW, I bought an 8ft Cortez, which seems pretty good.

All I need now is to replace my summer shorty wetsuit with one I can use for the winter. Anyone got any advice/tips/warnings?

Good times mate, enjoy the creators creation.

[phillwilson]

hey all...

DISASTER POST!!

I have cracked a rib!!

I decided to take my summer hols off from work to go to Wales surfing, I headed down to Porthcawl based on the magic seaweed predictions and lack of alternatives (had a family event in oxford first so as I live on the north east didnt fancy going all the way down to Newquay etc)

I got to Swansea just as the weather went from bad to really bad and had a pretty scary sesh in Caswell nearly getting mashed into the seawall.

next day surf was just as skethy but I WAS ON SURF TOUR DAMMIT, I was going in!!! so I had another storms windy choppy sesh in stupid conditons with my board being lifted up by the wind as it went over waves!! (Note therr were plenty of locals out, you guys are loco..you made me think it was safe heheh) anyways I first up had a good ride and when i fell off at the end I took a board ot the head as it got picked up by the wind as i got off it!!

I probably should have called it a night then but i thought one last wave....I caught one, but it was at a weird angle and pushed me off via the nose, I stood up and turned and CRACK, my board hit me right square in the chest propelled by a wave i didnt even see coming.

this was nasty stuff, , especially cos i had to fight a real strong wind just ot get the board back to the car with my ribs killin.

anyhoos...

LESSONS
1. dont think its going to be good cos magic seaweed is showing green on the coast!!
2. if it looks like xxxxx, it probably is!
3. just cos the locals can man it doesnt mean you can (tips hat to those who did a better job that night then I did)
4.always know where your board is in relation to you and others when in the water...i normally follow the have it to one side of you slavishly, based on my first lessons advice, that ngight i learnt why!!
5. there will always be other swells, dont go getting messed up just cos you break has been flat for a week!!

the bitter irony is that my local surf bud text saying that it was going off back at my home break and even though i am now home and its still looking good, i cant go in cos i think it would hurt like xxxxx.

any ideas on how long i need to leave it? cos god knows im tempted.

ON ANOTHER NOTE

Katsura---you are so hilariously right, a point proved by the fact i decided to take my "big kit" canon 5d...28-105 , 70 - 300 , 18-200 flash , tripod and the works on holiday.........it had about 4 photos through it cos i couldnt be arsed to take it places, then i decided to limit myself to my silly little 350d back up with a f1.2 50mm with a crappy fisheye attachment....with that i took tons of quirky random pics. hehe

Sykes et al, ta for tuning in, if you ever want to send some of that nice warm water over hear, that would be great, in the mean time feel free to PM me any " hey, when you did X did you find that Y happened" questions. Its always good to share

tree4 how you finding the cortez? I had a ball on the 9.2 but when my rib is ok , i cant wait to get back to the 8ft

[voodoocol]

yo phillwilson sorry been on hols n stuff and hadn`t seen your words. still a cracking thread, although the ribs thing sucks. I was at cayton yesterday, and it was ok. Got held down for what felt like eternity, thrown around and luckily spat out. But all good fun. cept now i feel like puking thinking about the amount of north sea i have in me.

Anywayz probs doing cayton this coming weekend, msw looks good so far, but we`ll see...

get better soon dude

[phillwilson]

cheers voods.. which end of Cayton was you at? pumps is mad on a strong day I normally end up pretty central when its pummelling.

magic sea weed gives me a bit of relief...there is still swell a-comin which means i dont have to push myself to go out in a half baked condition.

[Katsura]

All the best at healing that injury!