had an amazing weekend - went away with a bunch of french guys and was shocked at how much stoke they had - was incredible...
arrived at the beach to find really sloppy waves, stuff i recently would have not bothered with... not so the Frenchies... they all just shrugged "c'est la vie" and in they went and were as happy as the most epic of epic days... was infectious and i was soon on the same buzz as the rest of them... really glad i went out too. feel like i progressed about 3 steps in those few sessions.
brought out the longboard cos didn't want to have to chase peaks in the disorganised chaos the way i would have on the shorty despite the extra work required. felt quite fit anyway!
i've gotten to the stage now where i can catch a wave bottom turn, ride the line... pretty consistently (still a bit weak on my backhand). don't know what happened yesterday.. like something just clicked. started riding higher on the wave after take off, and driving the board from the tail... not through any conscious strategy... just started doing it. was doing turns i'd never thought i was capable of before (probably nothing really fancy tho it felt like that to me), but was able to use my new found ability to find real power in the wave.... get longer rides, and twist and turn around my mates paddling out where i'd normally have to ditch so i don't crash into them.
no real point to all this... just been thinkin about it all day and so stoked that i just had to tell someone