Problems with bigger waves.

[jasandra]

Hi , Ive been surfing for a while now and have no real problems in surfing waves of up to 4 feet. But when I try bigger waves i encounter real problems.
I paddle to catch the waves but 9 times out of 10 when Ive matched the speed and am starting to pop up I find myself dropping down the face of the wave at seems like a steep descent and speed and am unable to get into a standing position until i reach the bottom at which point I pearl or manage to stand up but the wave has already broken.
Can anyone give me some advice and to what they think Im doing wrong (regarding angling board or whatever) or is it a case of constantly practicing until the angle doesnt seem as steep and i get used to it.
HELP please ,

Jason.

[parrysurf]

gotta get up while the board is dropping.....it seems sketchy, but when you feel the free fall begin, just pop up. you will begin to find it easier to drop steeper waves cuz the wave does the work for you. practice is key
an angled take off or "shoulder hopping" is a way but it will keep you out of the good part of the wave.


keep the stoke

[isaluteyou]

speed, position and practise is the key.

position = being in the optimum position to take off on the wave. Bigger waves arnt exactly forgiving. Not only that but if you dont position yourself right you may end up over paddling/dropping in late which will probably result in taking a slam.

Speed = popup speed but also navigating through the sections if you are too slow or stall then chances are the wave will fold leaving you with nowhere to go.

Practise = theres no substatute. Just get out there and get trashed around itll come together.

Also your surfboard plays a factor too particulaly in steep hollow waves something with little or no rocker is not gonna be good

[Thibb]

I had a lot of trouble with this until recently (see my older posts). I think what helped me was catching the wave a little earlier, popping up as soon as I feel it starts pulling me along, shifting my weight towards the back (will help turn and prevent pearling) and turn before I even reach the bottom. This gives me a gentler angle at which to descend than when I go straight down.

If you are having trouble turning you might want to angle the board a little. But my problem with that is that it also makes it slightly harder to catch a wave and will therefore make me pop up a little later. Not sure this is the textbook answer but it has helped me, I've been doing quite well recently.

[jasandra]

Thanks for the advice . I had a feeling that it involved constant practice until i get it right and thanks for the tips.
Jason.

[Bub]

Are you doing ok with your pop-up and riding in waves smaller than 4ft?

[jasandra]

Yep no problem with that but just when they get bigger the drop seems more severe .!!!

[Bub]

It sounds like I-Salute-U gave some great advice. I encounter very similiar problems and I think its due to the fact that I'm still slow on my pop-up abilities as well as overpaddling at times and being too far inside for where the wave is breaking. Usually its because I've set up further inside to catch smaller waves, then when a bigger set comes in that is going to break a little further out, I go for it anyway and am too far inside and "crash and burn" It probably more of just gaining experience and training your eye better....knowing visually where you need to be on the wave and how much paddling you need do to get yourself into a successful spot to catch it easily. Knowing depending on where you are set up, which waves to take and which ones won't work for your spot in the lineup. Also the time you choose to start your paddle, and how much paddle energy to put yourself into just the right spot to catch the wave. All of those are factors. Just keep getting tons of experience, that is probably the best answer. Also having a more experience buddy out there with you to help "coach" you as to when to take off really helps. I've had my best rides when I had a buddy-coach tell which wave to take, which ones not to take and at just the right time I should start my approach. They just have a better trained eye than I do.