I just want to share my day with you all:
I went surfing today and the waves were BIG today and I was a bit scared. But once I got past the white water, which was kicking my but, because the waves were crashing over me like crazy. So today was the first time that I went beyond the white water and I was acturly in the LINE UP. It was so cool, paddleing along and having these huge waves go right under me as I am sitting on the board, they look like they are going to break but dont. But then I was like wow how do I get back to shore without killing my self. I was like I have 2 ride one of these huge waves, But I made it with help of my friend Colleen, who has been teaching me. we just kept paddling in and letting the waves push me to shore. and I was fine. So today was a whole new level for me, being way out with the big boys. I have not fullt stand up yet but I am taking my time with getting famillar with my board and the ocean.
I had a blast today