question about turtle roll

[jackscolon]

hey guys, so i was out trying to turtle on an 7'10" mini mal but the wave just carried the board with me grabbing onto it towards the shore, kind of defeating the purpose of rolling. i basically just turn over, wait for the wave to pass, but i'm feeling the wave push the board and me towards shore, and then when i turn over again i'm way far in from where i started. can you guys help me out? thanks