Just a few weeks ago I finally tried surfing, and it was fantastic. Okay, so it was also incredibly humbling...but hey, out of all the time i spent in the waves, the times i remember the best are the times i stood up (rather than that one perl!
I learned on a shortboard (not really my preference but it's all good)
as soon as i got in and found all the right positions...you guys may think i'm crazy, but i found it not too difficult. I guess i expected it to be harder... however, the thing i found the most difficult is all the surf "traffic". Surfing is sposed to be fun...but in water jam packed with surfers and barely any space to call your own, it becomes frustrating. Maybe I'm not as confident as i should be, but i really felt like being surrounded by great, seasoned surfers, i was intimidated and i think if there weren't so many others around, i know i would've stood up more, etc...is that totally lame or do any of you other newbies agree? Of course, there's a first time for everyone...and looking back on my mistakes, i'm ready to get back in as soon as i can and work on em. The feeling you get when you're on top of a wave is addicting! as i'm sure you all know!
cheers