I am a late 20s surfer, having surfed most of my teenage/adult life. I am intermediate/advanced. Occassionally I can surf quite ok, especially on my forehand and when the waves have a bit of push (which is rare for where i live)
One thing has really dogged me however. I never seem to be able to get into waves early on a short board. Often I'll find myself paddling for a wave on the inside next to someone and they'll be up on their feet much before me. I remember this would happen all the time when my mates and i would surf together and they'd steal all my waves! And i have always ridden boards that are suitable for my height/weight etc!
The other day i was surfing some junk waves and was amazed as to how early some people were getting onto waves - they were riding regular shortboards as well.
I find that when i get onto waves, i rarely get onto them with any momentum that will allow me to beat the first section. Currently riding a 6-0 Lost v2 rocket (20.25 wide and 2.5 thick) I weigh 80 kgs (180 pounds) and i am 6'0 tall - board paddles really well when paddling out etc.
The board maybe just seems a little too chunky to get onto small waves (even though the added volume should really help me catch lots of waves). Sometimes I ride a foamie when it's small and i get heaps of waves on it - and more importanly i take off with a bit of speed.
any tips for paddling so that i can get onto waves early. i am pretty fit and can surf for long periods but just can't get onto waves early most of the time.
any help would be greatly appreciated