Dantastic1985 wrote:Dude how does the whole 12ft face but only called a 5ft work? Whats that about?
Id live to ride a 12 ft beast. Slowly slowly, when i can nail most of my waves ill be looking to go big!
Okay . . .
Question:
How does 12=5 ?
Answer:
When surfing the 12ft face wave, the face you can see and ride up and down on is physically 12ft tall.
If you did not paddle for the wave, you just let it go under you, and then simply watched it travel to shore you’d see just the back of the wave and it would physically be about 5 to six foot in height.
So;
The 12 foot is the height of the face as seen on the actual wave face itself.
The 5 foot is the height of the back of the same wave as it travels to shore, but seen while still sat in the line-up.
At my local break, when the surf report says it’s 3-4ft, I know I’m in for six to eight foot faces.
When the surf report says its ten foot – I go and buy beer and watch the TV (I have no intention of surfing 20ft + storm closeout faces!).
EDIT: Here you can see the face is higher than the back of the wave:
http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?q=breaki ... :100,i:175