Basically i'm a beginner surfer, i've been practicing hard core for about a year (with a few trips to costa rica!), and i need some serious help. My boyfriend tells me "the drop in is killing you!" I can paddle and catch waves..but i am having a hard time standing at the exact moment i need to (before i end up nose diving). How do you know the exact moment- and how do you get your body to jump up immediately? i practice my pop ups every day (i don't have a problem in small waves), yet i seem to have a mental block as soon as i catch a bigger wave with the whole dropping in thing. Surprizingly, i have done this before and i know the feeling- i just can't re-create it very often. Also- should i concentrate on getting my back foot positioned first? i feel like i can't get out of my own way- does anyone else ever feel this way?
frustrated in fort lauderdale!!!!
ps- i ride a 7'6 fun shape and an 8'6 long board