nose-diving...

[oldenglish]

I faced this problem for a bit, and still do when I get out and start knocking off the rust from a few weeks of no surf. What I find is that I recognize I'm getting into the wave too late so I scoot forward on the board and sit further outside. I then pearl even more, what I find at this point is I have only moved maybe 15 ft further outside and with the better planing from being in the sweet spot as well as deeper harder strokes I end up in the same steep wave section I was struggling with earlier. Now I know that further outside can be a bit further than 15ft and I usually start by being way too far outside so that I can dial in my position without wipeing out, without costing others too many waves, and it also gives me an idea of where set waves are breaking as well as clean up sets (clean up sets in 6 sec wind swell hah)

Obviously this is very subjective but taking an analytical approach to troubleshooting to it problems can be really beneficial.

[dtc]

From my perspective I agree with OldEnglish - start 'too far' out and then move in until you have hit the right spot (rather than starting too far in and perling/fallling, then trying to move out). It only takes a few waves to get it right and doesn't hit your confidence (its much easier to miss a wave than to sommersault). Don't forget to angle your board a bit as well.

Obviously the 'right' spot to start your wave catching will change over a session due to the tides (and maybe wind), particularly around the turn of the tide. However, when you find the right spot, here is a tip for making sure you get back out to that spot for your next attempt (you can then adjust a little bit once there to take into account any changes).

Sitting on your board at spot you have decided is the correct place to take off, pick a landmark to your left. Can be a rock or a tree or a blue roof, whatever. Draw a line between that landmark and where you are sitting and extend the line through you to a landmark to your right. When you paddle out next time, check that you are on that line (ie on the line between the two landmarks) - if you are, then you are (about) the same distance out as you want to be. This is actually a tip for swimming in the surf, because it lets you check whether you are caught in a rip without noticing and hence drifting out to sea (it can also let surfers know if they are caught in a rip).

I find it useful to pick a third landmark to the front (eg the beach) and also line up with that landmark (so you are in the spot where three lines converge). The 'right and left' landmarks give you the right distance out from the beach, the beach landmark gives you the right distance along the beach (eg if you know this is where the shoulder of the wave will be). For example, if you are on the beach watching the waves before you go in, it may be that you paddle out through a channel and then want to paddle across the beach to where the wave is breaking. On the beach, you say 'the spot where I want to be is opposite that house', then you can find the spot easily even though you are not paddling directly out to it. It also lets you know if you are drifting sideways (along the beach).

Over time you will probably get more experienced at picking the right spot just by watching the waves and 'knowing' where to be and adjusting on the spot.

[RonG]

Obviously the 'right' spot to start your wave catching will change over a session due to the tides (and maybe wind), particularly around the turn of the tide. However, when you find the right spot, here is a tip for making sure you get back out to that spot for your next attempt (you can then adjust a little bit once there to take into account any changes).

I've had little luck (probably just me) using that form of reckoning to determine how far out I'm sitting. In the absence of any kind of existing lineup to use as a guide (i.e. go where most people riding boards similar to yours are sitting), I generally just use the paddle out to figure it. When the waves I'm paddling out through are forming to just the point I'd want to take off, I go out just a little further than that. Not perfect, but then again no matter where you're sitting you're always going to have to adjust further out or in based on changing conditions and the odd sneaker set.

[pmcaero]

I think jaffa's explanation is spot-on, I have been recently due to good luck and some bigger wave been able to catch some greens and he describes the maneuver exactly how I felt it.

[Surfer 22]

Your nose diving because you are catching the wave at the most critical part (when its at its peak.) you want to catch the wave before it gets to that critical part. It is all about timing and learning the waves. Another thing that might help is you want to be sliding down the face of the wave not dropping. If your dropping your catching the wave late (at is peak) which is why you nose dive. If you have a longboard you can go farther out then if you were on a shortbaorder. The reason is because long boards catch waves easier and can paddle faster... You could be 20-30 feet out of the breaking zone with a longboard and still catch the wave. Most importantly dont catch the wave at the breaking point or peak!!

Hope this helps!!

[Surfer 22]

One more addition catch the wave when it's forming. Keep practicing!!! And when you get that good wave theres no better feeling!!!

[Minnamyy]

This is a very helpful thread . I am total beginner and since waves were breaking very close to the beach today I could not really surf whitewater. Waves being small I went back for some unbroken waves and just did not get anywhere. Ended up just paddling to get more fit . After reading this and watching the video I think next time will be more succesful. Thanks!

[Dantastic1985]

Very helpful thread. Good info guys...

[312T4]

Hi guys.
I'm new here, and I qualify as a "later in life beginner".

I started surfing 1 year ago. I have my reasonable rides if the conditions are right.
About nose diving, I respect your suggestions but I have to had a little thing:

I believe it mostly depend on the spot you r surfing and the conditions of the day.
I tend to go to the same 2 or 3 beaches. There are days in which I feel like a king, and days in which I nose dive over and over.
It just happened last sunday.
The reason is that the conditions were poor and the waves were "coming out" very late with only say max 10m time to catch them before they break.
Now, because I'm a hook, I really need time to catch, pop up and turn the board. In those 10m I barely reached to pop up point, but it was already too late.

There was no way I could catch them before, because before(far out) where I, and all the other, was sitting there was nothing.
I noticed that I was not the only one with problems that day (all with longs). Most people just lost the waves.
Only 2 guys were able to surf consistently. They were young and fit. They had longs as well, and they didn't stop paddling one sec! They were machines.

Reading your suggestions here and in some other pages, I have to say that they were arching their back a lot, and their hands on the board were as back as their hips.
I wouldn't focus on this if it wasn't for this forum and your suggestions.

Next time I'll try to do it. I don't know if this is the key, but I'm sure when you nose dive is not only a matter of position (in the water). Sometimes the waves, even small, are very steep and you need (just!) a few step more in you skills the be able to ride them.

Cheers

[312T4]

I had some chances to try to arch my back and put my hands closer to my hips.
I felt much better. Seems the board is more stable.
Need to try more, I can't wait.

[312T4]

I had the chance to try it out on a few bigger -for me- waves and I have to say I'm on the verge of a personal revolution!!
Once, I fell because I was too anxious to turn, and a couple of times I had to back off to give way to others.
But I feel I'm close to catch everything from 1 to 6ft!
This is a big step! )

[surf patrol]

Exellent

[givemegreen]

this thread is magic
thanks for all good advice the vid tut at the start of the thread is really helpful
last weekend i had this problem only got to ride 3 waves eat the rest of them in style fingers crossed this weekend i can put all the advice into pratice
il post again after been down the coast this weekend thanks for posting all this good advice

toby

[Physiopro]

Hi guys
New to the forum, started surfing a few years ago but only get to the sea about 2 or 3 times a year! Really struggle with the same problem. Not major fit (51) so only get a few chances to stand before I am to knackered!! I have a 9.6 Takayama model T. Really like my board. I am 5ft 6 and weigh 11stone, reasonably fit and healthy. Could somebody post the video again that you all are referring to as for some reason I can't see it?

Also any views on my board should I stick with it or look for alternatives

cheers
Andy

[cwall]

Holy Nards, this is the thread I've been looking for.

That simplysurf.com video is outstanding. I've watched endless videos online and this was the one that finally tied it all together in a cohesive logical manner. I was convinced that I was perling because I was too far foward on the board; looks like I need more speed. It never even occured to me to try catching some whitewater for a few days to get the hang of it before heading outside. Can't wait to get back out tomorrow!

Exceed the speed, exceed the speed, exceed the speed, exceed the speed, exceed the speed, EXCEEEEEEED THE SPEEEEEED.....

Thanks, y'all!

[cwall]

Hi guys
New to the forum, started surfing a few years ago but only get to the sea about 2 or 3 times a year! Really struggle with the same problem. Not major fit (51) so only get a few chances to stand before I am to knackered!! I have a 9.6 Takayama model T. Really like my board. I am 5ft 6 and weigh 11stone, reasonably fit and healthy. Could somebody post the video again that you all are referring to as for some reason I can't see it?

Also any views on my board should I stick with it or look for alternatives

cheers
Andy

Yo Physio,

I had trouble loading the video as well. Their iplayer thingy can't seem to handle the traffic they get. Give it a few shots, try different times. I'm in the 'super-beginner' phase and I've watched like 50 vids online--this one was the most helpful by far. Definitely worth the effort to see it. (Hope the mods don't think I'm schilling for them, it was just a good vid, imho)

[LJSurfa]

Tbh when I go a period without a surf (currently suffering from a torn shoulder) I try to not think about it too much when I am back in the water. The reason for this is I over analyse it and it all goes wrong. Just pop and go all out!

[cwall]

Tbh when I go a period without a surf (currently suffering from a torn shoulder) I try to not think about it too much when I am back in the water. The reason for this is I over analyse it and it all goes wrong. Just pop and go all out!

That probably makes sense if you already know how to surf. I have yet to even stand up.

[Physiopro]

What can I say! Just watched the vid on surfsimply.com/podcast/ called catching waves! Wow bloody fantastic. Thank you to the guy who started this thread and thanks to the forum for being there!

Great vid and explains exactly why I am nose diving! Am at a stage where I am getting out the back but unable to stand whereas can stand easily in white water! It explains it all yeeeeehaaaaa! All I got to do is do it now! Should be interesting! Going down to saunton puts borough in march so will work on it then, meantime keep working on my upper body fitness

Cheers

[LJSurfa]

Tbh when I go a period without a surf (currently suffering from a torn shoulder) I try to not think about it too much when I am back in the water. The reason for this is I over analyse it and it all goes wrong. Just pop and go all out!

That probably makes sense if you already know how to surf. I have yet to even stand up.

This is also true but stick with it because it is the most amazing sport.