I am a beginner surfer. I try to make it to the beach about once a week (I live about 40 miles away). I went today and I got very frustrated. I can stand on the board a lot more often now. Usually I pop up, although my front foot seems to drag its way instead of lift, but I think that might be a flexibility issue of mine, but it still works. I have two problems however. I find it hard to pop up whilst getting my front foot where I want it. The effort of popping up/balancing/keeping momentum with the wave seems to stop me and often my foot will end up to the side of the centre line, and when it does I will have to quickly readjust or I will wipeout. I practice at home popping up in the dry, and I can get my foot in the centre all the time, but popping up in the sea feels A LOT different. Is this a common problem? How do I overcome it?
Also, when I have succesfully stood up, I also notice that almost all the time I will ride the wave for about ten meters, and then the wave will just pass on without me. I thought I might be putting too much weight on the tail, so I tried balancing and centering my weight but it did the same thing. I also tried shiting more weight to the nose, but it still didn't help. I am wondering whether I just need to catch bigger waves? The ones I was practicing on were tiny ones as I found them more stable and easier to stand up on. I am a six foot guy and keep in good shape (I am 22). My board is about 7'6''. Maybe I just need a bigger board to learn on?
I really want to get good! What really frustrated me was seeing everyone else managing to do it so effortlessly, and I am struggling and putting everything into it and progressing so slowly. As I said, I am very athletic and also have been skateboarding for about 8 years, so in fitness and balance perspectives I should be fine for surfing. I also have been doing yoga for 2 years. I figured its all about technique or that my body/back and hips are just not designed for surfing
. Any help will be appreciated.