Re: Paddling out..
this is where a mentor or tips from an experienced surfer can be very helpful. Failing that, stand on the beach awhile and figure out when the waves roll in, when they are not (or less so), and how they form. Experienced surfers expend very little energy getting out back. They'll wait until there are fewer or no waves coming in before paddling out. They go between waves where two swells haven't met to form one solid wall of water. When half way out, they'll wait between swells in the trough until there are no or fewer waves coming.
I used to surf a lot at Dillon Beach in northern California. The waves can be constant there. In winter, they just keep coming in a nearly endless set. There was a surfer there that grew up there. I used to watch him for long periods. He would do the things I told you about above and always reminded me of the way a lizard runs across boulders and other surfaces. He / they move, then pause. He /they move again at the right time, then pause. Then it happens again. In addition to this kind of action, the surfer didn't go straight into the oncoming waves. He went kind of parallel to the shore / longshore current.
So, I recommend you watch guys like this very closely. Hopefully, you will learn from observation much better than I did.
Last edited by billie_morini
on Sun Jun 20, 2010 4:43 am, edited 1 time in total.