i just came from the beach, here the trip of my first day with a board
in the morning i got the wax from a skate shop, they did not have but the guy gave me his bars, 1 for base, an 2 bars for the top... well i got to da beach at 11 wax my board up-down-side to side way & use surf boots..
but flesh (no swearing please) dude i couldnt pop-up in 10 hours i have been there, first the waves were like 3 feet, then they became aroun 5 feet, and of course i couldnt pass through the whitewater... but i remember chill duude and keep trying to reach the line up ..... but didnt get it haha..... ALSO the current waas soo hard and could not stand right even with all my legs force :S it was reaaaly hard, why is this for the moon? she was facing the exactly direction of the current flow in the water..
i just get to the line up like 5 times and catch like 2 or 3 waves that took me to the beach but just lying on the board.... on the first 10 minutes, i got myself at the line up fot the first time, and saw a wave coming, y try to take it ( i have never felt the pull the wave gave me) and y try to stand up but i kept the nose pointing the beach and throw me over the wave.... damn!! i roll like 5 times down there and run out of air... damn it feels good haha lol
my ribs and knees hurt so baaad
but not everything was badd, i learn to duck dive, sit, and get to the line up todaay wiiiii
do you guys stand in the first day??... im going tomorrow but i dont know if i cant stand up ITS SO fleshin' HAAARDD!!!!!!
MAHALO TO ALL U BROTHERS