I already searched the forum and came upon the long hold down thread and what not, but I was wondering if I could do anything outside of the water to help me better prepare for the wipeouts.
Today, It was 4-5 ish.. with bigger sets.. and the waves were hollow, heavy, and closing out. The wave implodes because the air is trapped inside when it crashes. Anyways, I paddle in.. with no trouble.. catch a freak peak, which was so incredible. I got an amazing ride off of that.. after making a turn and pumping the wave was about to close out.. so i thought i might as well go for an air.. but instead ended up just riding off and out the back because the lack of speed. So.. i Hop right back on the board.. totally stoked and ready for mroe. 2nd wave.. late drop.. but still stuck it.. i was amazed..so amazed that i wipedout after about 2 seconds. But that was ok.. and 3rd wave.. backside.. totally got into the barrel.. and i lost my balance from the drop.. so i had some layback barrel thing going on where my back was on the wave.. but i wiped out after about 2 seconds too. HERE was the problem.
Huge set comes rolling through.. Me and the irish guy next to me just paddled to try and pass it.. and he duckdived under it.. and although I tried it sucked me back and through the falls.. bad timing.. i scramble up for breath and is relatively ok because i didnt lose the board.. but next wave.. just smashes right infront of me.. rips the board out from under my hand and i just get tumbled.. after about 4 more waves and me tumbling gasping for breath.. I finally got out.. Short of breath, I ran down the beach where the 1 ft waves were breaking.
But Now.. the rides I got from 1 footers sucked so much.. that I ran back to the bigger waves.. I subsequently then took a large number of bad tumbles most of which had me questioning if I would be able to live. So.. I think my main problem is I have trouble duckdiving sometimes. The wipeouts I took from falling off my board was nowhere near as bad as the ones I took from a mistimed duckdive. I think the conditions were also pretty harsh, because the irish guy got worked a lot of times too.. but he came up laughing.. which made me really envious. I really wished I could have stuck it out because although they closed out and what not.. the drops were really fun.. and it was really hollow.
So I am just wondering how to better my endurance of holding my breath. By the way I think I can only hold it for about 30 seconds in the pool!!