So Im an old guy (39) that's been surfing for about 1 1/2 years now. Sometimes 2-3 times a week, sometimes once every couple weeks. For the last 6 months I have had one major obstacle. On anything bigger than say 4' as long as I have a nice slow shoulder going left (yeah I'm goofy), I can take it no problem. The problem comes in when they are peeling over faster or are bigger rights.
Yesterday I went out and it was 4-6 with bigger sets. Looking around, I was the only one out that couldn't take the late drop. I can be looking at a perfect shoulder but if it's already peeling over, I just can't force myself to do it. I know in my head that it's only water and I have been bashed a few times so I know I'll be OK but I just can't seem to force myself to take them. I'm thinking that it's because my pop-up isn't the fastest so subliminally I know I won't be set in time.
Anyone else run into this road block? If so, how'd you get through it?