How long did it take?

How long did it take?

Postby JfetZ » Mon Aug 15, 2005 1:23 am

How long dit it take for you to get your drop ins down (mainly on bigger, stronger waves)? Hours in the water i mean. Im just curious because ill go straight for like a week and get a solid drop in and catching of the waves. Then not have time for about 2 weeks and i always seem to wimp out, fall, or nosedive of the drop in the first session and sometimes, its hard for me to catch a wave!
JfetZ
Grom
 
Posts: 46
Joined: Sun Apr 24, 2005 8:08 am

Sponsor

Sponsor
 

Postby WaveJunkie » Mon Aug 15, 2005 4:59 am

Standing in a line, I always feel like I'm in "last place" unless there are people behind me.

OK -- I bought a board two weeks ago. I'm 57, have wanted a board since I was about 14.

A couple days out -- I can catch a wave and ride it in on my stomach. No problem. But it doesn't even begin to run through my head to stand up on the board.

I sit outside and wobble on the board like I'm wrestling a snake and standing on marbles.

There are those in line standing behind you. :lol:
User avatar
WaveJunkie
Local Hero
 
Posts: 111
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2005 3:51 pm
Location: "Eat, drink & be merry . . . for tomorrow we SURF ! ! !"

Postby sinistapenguin » Mon Aug 15, 2005 8:41 am

How long have you been surfing?

I was having a conversation with my brother in law about this - he's just come back from Newquay and he was pretty stoked even though the waves were only 1-2ft max.

The reason he was stoked was that he'd finally sussed out popping up - he knows he's got it sorted because he now doesn't know how he does it - he just get's up!

That's the difference, if you're still having to think about getting up then you're not going to be getting up quickly enough to make a decent sized drop.

It's normal to lose your bottle after not being in the water for a while, but you've just got to think- I did it last time or as I do - 'everyone else out here is making this drop and even when they wipeout, their not dying so what's to worry about!!'

You've got to just go for it!

Sinista
User avatar
sinistapenguin
Surfing Legend
 
Posts: 1135
Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 4:05 pm
Location: "That's just the lemon next to the pie"

Postby JfetZ » Fri Aug 19, 2005 10:02 pm

i learned to surfwhen i was 11, but i only got to go a couple times during the summer. now im 15 and went almost all summer. Yea i know what you mean about just popping up. i dont think, but on the stronger waves, when i pop up, i just drop lose my balance sometimes and cant make a bottom turn. Sometimes i nosedive now but i think thats because i just got a new hybrid and am slowly trying to make the transition to shortboard. So therefore, havent found the exact paddling possition
JfetZ
Grom
 
Posts: 46
Joined: Sun Apr 24, 2005 8:08 am

Postby sinistapenguin » Mon Aug 22, 2005 9:05 am

When you pop up - STAY LOW - if you stand up too quickly you will lose your balance. Keep your centre of gravity as low as possible and you'll have a better chance!
User avatar
sinistapenguin
Surfing Legend
 
Posts: 1135
Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 4:05 pm
Location: "That's just the lemon next to the pie"



Similar topics


Return to Surf Chat

Forum Only Advanced Search
Follow Us