Why do most surfers look miserably, grumpy and generally unhappy in the water?
I have noticed this for a long time but it struck home when at my local, Llangennith, there was an early 30s, average-good surfer sat at the line-up. His face set in stone and when I paddled out again, he took a good wave in front of me; a fun ride with a bit of weaving, nothing special but what struck me was that he looked expressionless the whole time. He caught the wave, rode it and kicked out without a single flicker of enjoyment crossing his face.
He is not alone, most surfers in the UK look positively angry when they surf. When most human beings exchange a glance they either nod, smile or otherwise acknowledge each others presence. In the UK there is meagrely a stony stare from most.
Why are surfers/ Brits so miserable?