As I drove down today towards the beach I noticed the waves looked...HUGE! Got a bit excited but they also looked sloppy and I figured that because of the £3 car park charge (usually its £5 or £7) the wave's must have been crap. I never bother looking at the surf forecast because I'd rather go when its a bad day than not go, and just wait longer for a few good waves.
There were only about 50 (max) surfers today on the 2 mile stretch of beach which was good however my pop up seemed more difficult than the last weeks. I didn't manage to stand and ride a wave until about my fourth try. I figured this could be for a few reasons; 1) The previous week I upped my gym workout and bettered my diet whilst doing less stretching. The increase in weight lifting and less stretching might have made me more stiff. 2) The waves were pretty sloppy and all over the place which didn't help, especially for balancing.
I did manage in the end to pop up although I spent about 2 1/2 hours in the sea getting to my targetted 10 rides as I kept venturing out as far as I could to catch the larger waves. One good thing was the size of the waves today. They were huge! And even the white wash was so powerful it almost knocked the wind out of me at times just standing there. It was taking so long to walk out because of the strength of the waves I started paddling and found it much faster, although tiring.
I was feeling quite frustrated to be honest for the first half of the surfing today. I'd see the few experienced people catching and riding waves all the time and noticed that maybe I wasn't as good as I thought I was, but it's always a good thing to be brought back to reality sometimes!
I caught 3 or 4 waves after spending 10-20 minutes getting out as far as I could for the 'big waves'. I found these quite difficult to balance on though which I'm sure was due to the conditions. I caught and popped up on the perfect wave, at least 4-5 foot and just breaking, but my boards nose got sucked under infront of me and I couldn't compensate by shifting my weight and ended up with what probably was a perfect wipeout
I also noticed that the shortboarders (more experienced than me) and most of the people surfing were surfing the whitewash. I think that may have been due to the fact that the sea was so sloppy it must have been easier nearer the shore. When I got to 8 or so pop ups, I started to move closer to the shore with the majority of the people surfing, and found it 10x easier to balance and pop up. After I did that I started to manage to surf every wave I caught again, effortlessly like the previous weeks. I think therefore it must have been the conditions and not my 'skills diminishing' (I hope!
When I had reached my ten pop ups, the weather turned and it started pouring with rain, followed by a hail storm. Might sound strange, but I found it quite a nice feeling, in the ocean like that. I stayed in a caught another 2-3 waves then decided enough was enough and went back to my car.
Originally I had planned to change from ten simple pop ups, to ten pop ups with smooth rides (to make sure I progress as quickly as possible), but because of the conditions I kept it at ten pop ups. Theres always next week!
After a while of being frustrated with the bad conditions I started to just let the waves pass me by. It may sound strange but I've found myself managing to do this more in life in general after I started surfing. Situations I'd usually get overly stressed about, I don't get caught up in and they pass by almost un-noticed. I don't get attached to them. A symptom of the surf disease?
Also, 'bad days' are inevitable. Without them how would we appreciate the good days? There'd be no perspective for the good days to make them good
. It keeps getting better
Last edited by jwardmagic on Sun Sep 11, 2011 12:00 am, edited 3 times in total.