Just came back from a book signing at Chaucer's store in Santa Barbara. Author Peter Heller read some selections from his new book, "Kook, What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave." Peter signed the two books I purchased and wrote a very nice inscription in the book I will give to my surfing mentor that helped me tremendously in my first 2 years of surfing.
You can read reviews for this book, as well as, read some of it at this link:
www.amazon.com/Kook-Surfing-Taught-Catc ... t_ep_dpt_1
Peter Heller contributes regularly to the US' National Public Radio (NPR) and wrote these other books:
"The Whale Warriors" about trying to save whales and dolphins from slaughter. He was present when the covert film footage was shot to make the true, but horrifying movie, "The Cove." He told us a little about his experience and it is chilling.
"Hell or High Water" about travel through Tibet's deepest river gorge. Peter is a master with a kayak. He decided to try surfing after writing this book, became a kook, and got hooked.