Re: Surfing incident right or wrong??
hes being a mean person. i've had this problem soo many times.
Here is the case though;
look at this terrible discription and graph.
AT X- Wave is breaking
AT O- Some people, swim ahead of everyone and try to take it further out, even if it is breaking at X.
AT P- Some people don't want to paddle as hard for a wave, so they sit inside more closer to X.
AT W- Some people sit right on the breaking part so they have to paddle alittle bit
AT D- THe Dbag we are talking about
At point P is where you should be
NOTE: P and D are not equal. P is when no one from W is going in that direction and you can take it, D is when someone is trying to catch the wave form point W and you be a bitch and steal it.
REguardless of where you stand the wave will break at a certain area, unless its like a 4ft wave in your case of 2-3ft waves.
At the 4 ft wave, paddling for the point O is certainly ok, and often those are the guys that get it and they end up dodging everyone and everyone likes to watch them. Point O people are also mostly longboarders, becaus they can catch a wave sooner before it breaks they can sit at O.
AT the 2-3ft wave breaking at point X , you were at W, however it sounds like the wave was acctually slightly below point W and so you had to paddle even harder. I normally sit at P because i shortboard, and its very easy to catch the waves when you in the right spot, and i'm kind of a whore and i take the shiti waves and waves no one really wants, even if a big one is coming because i figure the sets almost over.
NOW rule is whoever is in DEEPEST to the peak. meaning if a wave has a left and a right its a split peak, and shoudl be split, but it really belongs to whoever stands up first and chooses the direction(thats how you get barrels, u stay away from the peak then go toward the opposite shoulder). lets say the wave is breaking left(frontside for goofy) then whoever is to your right has priority, evem if they are past the peak. The problem comes when the Dbag at point D thinks I should get this wave, does a flip-a-bitch and easily takes the wave, this IS a form of being an asshole. From his point of view he sees that you won't be able to catch the wave and so he decides well its flat behind you so i might as well take this one. However, if he sees that you are working so hard he should have let it go, reguardless of if u make it or not, even though he has it easier for the paddle.
WAVE catching is very territorial and all about positioning.
Even though they are a local, they could be the worst possible local out there. You should give respect to the local, but more so you respect the better surfer, because if you can become allies with them, they WILL shelter you and give you a wave ticket.
Whats a wave ticket? Imagine if u were freinds with kelly slater. Now in the lineup kelly slater will be sitting at the very best spot because he's kelly slater and he can read waves like a book. So lets 1 big wave comes and he decides to let you have it. You take it and everyone behind you respects you for sitting next to the famous kelly, and he chose you to have this wave. Now that you are done, you have an almost very weird social ladder to climb back up to kelly. Meaning you can actually paddle all teh way back up to the lineup near kelly without feeling awkward or not respecting the lineup. the same works with a group of friends and ect.
This is the wave ticket(i call it) and groups have it and they often begin to dominate the spot. thats why locals wave ticket, casuse tehy know each other they swim right back up and socially and psychologically its ok for us lol.
some locals are funny some are mean. Most are really cool and can help you become a better surfer. Just give them the big waves a couple of times and then talk to them. The sacrifice of teh wave shows respect, and the talking shows you are not some kid who is just there trying to take the wave, you are a person who wants to be recognized.
If you ever see them again they will be happy to see you, and will encourage you when your on a wave and will gladly give waves out.
~it may take a couple of times lol