It's the best damn thing I've ever done! I'd give up anything and anyone to have it as a life, except for Topper (mah birdie!) Yesterday I was picked up around 8 AM, and we took off to Westport. It took a while to situate myself in the wetsuit and booties.
Once we arrived it was like heaven. I knew in my soul that it was where I belonged. I can't even describe the feeling I had, it was just...remarkable. We paddled out and she taught me the basics of balance, popping up, paddling, duck-diving, and going over waves that I must travel past. This first 30 minutes was dedicated to practicing paddling and balance. Afterwards I took my chances with the BIG ASS waves (for me anyway.) I stood up about 4 times today and rode on my knees many times! It was the biggest rush I've ever had. More than any other sport!
Surfing is..amazing. People respect eachother, each surfer you run into is a friend. Currents popped up all over the place (bad day for currents, good day for waves.) It was nicer on the coast than anywhere else in Washington. It was 75 degrees.
I got toppled over a few underwater and the current would sometimes carry me sideways. I would duckdive and turn around to catch fast waves. I got the chance to stand up on one of those and it was the greatest feeling in the whole world. I love everything about surfing now. I love the people, the atmosphere, and the workout!