first time surfing a 4 ft wave

[surf-legend]

im a begginer and im heading to wales on friday and i heard theres going to be 4 ft waves there and i was wondering if youve got any tips for me

[pkbum]

Never grab the rail when you are popping up.

[billie_morini]

Based on how your question is posed, it sounds like these might be the largest waves you will have tried to date. So, here's what to do.

1. Before you go, get well rested and hydrated. Control on both of these things will keep you from tiring prematurely.

2. Watch the waves and other surfers from the shore for 1/2 hour or more. Look to see where the waves are breaking and how; what the wave sets and patterns are; how the other surfers get out beyond the break (can you paddle around the surf or do you have to time your way through it between sets?); and where the obstacles are (rocks, jetties, reefs, etc).

3. Enter the water boldly. Don't be nervous or fretful. It could get you smashed by a wave or run over by a surfer. If you want to get a little more feel for the place and wave power, ride some of the crumbly waves (mush) for 1/2 to 1 hour. Take a break an then go to step 4.

4. Paddle out beyond the break near the line up and watch the other surfers catch waves from the water for 15 to 30 minutes. You'll see things about the waves and surfers you couldn't see from the shore. You'll be able to see how the swell forms better and this will help you when you want to catch one.

5. Catch a wave and ride. To catch a wave, you've got to paddle hard, but at the right time. Be sure you don't catch it too late. With larger waves, there is enough power to take you over the falls. But if that happens to you, it isn't the worst thing. You'll find there is more distance to the drop if you have only been riding 1 foot waves. This can be really cool and, if you catching the wave too late, you'll pearl (that's no fun!). If you don't catch the wave, you need to return to the outside right away or paddle toward shore beyond where the waves are breaking. This will prevent you from getting slammed or going over the falls. Ride the wave all the way to the shore. If you have surfed enough in small stuff, you should find that your body knows automatically what to do from paddling to popping up.

6. Remember, the best surfer is the one that has the most fun. So, have fun! Sometimes my job has me so tired out that all I do is paddle beyond the breakers and watch the other guys catch waves. It is always wonderful to be in the water. Remember that, too.

[Sillysausage]

Hi, where about you going to surf (north? south?...)? might be some decent surf next weekend but hard to say how big at the moment. just take your steps slowly. most beach breaks have a number of peaks, so you don't have to paddle right outback and surf the biggest waves there are (unless you really want to) but just be aware of them so you don't get smashed sitting too close in. can help with most spots in porthcawl and the gower but don't know much about mid or north wales.

[Otter]

Wow, a beginner and already a legend? Some of us must be Gods by now!

Good luck with your surfing, keep it up! I've got a lot of respect for you folks in the UK who surf those cold waters. Of course, I'll deny having said that.

[crepuscular]

Never grab the rail when you are popping up.

lol, that's like the basic of surfing...

[derbyshire surfer]

Wow 'billie_morini', wish I'd had you around when I learned to surf! Good advice!

[perusurf]

billi_morini pretty much said it all, my piece of advice on top of that is first warm up, strech a little and then go for all the waves possible, just paddle as hard as you can, don't chicken out, nothing is gonna happen to you, when i first started i backed out of a lot of waves, just go for it and that's the best thing you can do, you'll get used to it quick, and don't get in the way of other surfers....

[RJD]

IMO take off at a slight angle and get to your feet as soon as you start catching the wave, better to be too quick and have to go for another than too late.

[Hang11]

Don't shut your eyes and hold your breath if you pull in.

[billie_morini]

Dear derbyshire,
Thank you, but I'm much better with words than with surfing. I would not be surprised if you are 3 times the surfer than I'll ever be.
Billie

[derbyshire surfer]

Hi billie,
Do you surf a lot? I don't get that much (every other weekend being 120 miles from my 'local break). It's taken me a few years I guess of weekend surfing to get confident enough to get 'out the back'. I find no matter what it makes me happy and that's what I like about surfing.

I think I could definatley have used some of your 'words of wisdom' still!
I kind of paddled out first time on a 'foamie' board, paddled straight out, had no clue what I was doing and got 'rinsed' all the way back in lol!
Live and learn! Where is your 'local' break?

D.S

[billie_morini]

DS,
If I can surf every Saturday, that is a lot for me. My job takes a tremendouse amount of my time and I don't live particulary close to the ocean. From my town in northern California, there are many accessible beaches. However, the drives requires 45 minutes to 2 hours. This range allows me to access Dillon Beach, Bolinas Jetty, Pacifica/Lindamar, and Santa Cruz (38th st, 41st St, and Pleasure Point). San Francisco's Ocean Beach is also within the 45 minute range, but I'm not strong enough to surf there. For much of 2007, I managed to go nearly every Saturday and even managed to go on a few evenings during the week. So far this year, it's been a bust. Not only has my job kept me from surfing, it has kept me from sleeping. I'm pretty beat. If I get into the water this weekend, I'll probably just float around.

My wife surfs some, too, and that can make it easier to go. However, whenever she is involved we ALWAYS leave home too late. Sometimes we'll rent a vacation apartment in Santa Cruz for a week at a time. That is great because we surf every day then. Other times we camp. At Christmas we camped about 4 hours north at Caspar Creek in Mendocino County. That was the coldest water I have ever surfed in. After 3.5 hours, I could not feel my feet. It was still a blast. It was cold and damp there at that time and our old big black dog really suffered due to arthritis. She was miserable. Me, on the other hand, was loving it.

I'm seriously looking into new employment in Hawaii, Australia, and San Diego. I look in Santa Cruz, too, but don't have any promising leads like I do in these other locations. I think it'd be a dream to live really close to surf spots. Can you believe it? The one solid employment opportunity that fell on me would require my return to Germany. I love it there, but there is no surf! (unless you count that standing river wave in downtown Munich)

Well, maybe one day you will holiday here in northern California and I'll take you to surf at all of my spots.

Billie

[pkbum]

Never grab the rail when you are popping up.

lol, that's like the basic of surfing...

Yeah even though its the basic, I see lot of beginner just grab the rail and get ready for a wipe out.

[drowningbitbybit]

I'm seriously looking into new employment in Hawaii, Australia, and San Diego.

I thoroughly recommend moving to a new place, a new country even, right next to the ocean.