Well here im 5 months into my trip.Im 27 and Ive been spending my time surfing as much as i can on the Northern beaches,Manly mostly.Only at this stage do i feel im ready to take my trip up the east coast. I have been surfing for about 2.5 years but this only adds up to 1.5 years constant surfing which is not all that much.And add to this the fact im self thought.Back home(Ireland)surfing is not very popular and my mates are still just getting the hang of it.So really its been the school of hard knocks for me. And let me tell you surfing in ireland all year is really only for the hardcore. You need big balls coz by the end of the winter its been so cold your lucky to still have balls. Add to this the fact that as soon as i landed here within 12 hours i had bought a 6'8" and a 9'3" ready to get my longboard style sorted and figure out how to ride a 6'8".
Some of you may be thinking what the f***,this guy really knows how to make life hard for himself. Learing to surf and riding two completely different boards which take two different schools of surfing to ride. Im thinking the end product will be an Irish surfer/waterman with a mad style of surfing. or a dead surfer with a 9'3"wedged in his head.
But that same 9'3" looked after me down in Bells,biggest wave of my life for about 10 seconds,still its a sweet memory.
So now its up the coast looking for that empty point or reef and charging.With no one around im sure ill find that ride where it all works. No looking all over the shop for surf schools to run over or checking that your not dropping in on someone or being droped in on by some F*** wit. Thats when i surf at my best,nothing to think about but me board the wave and trying to stay safe.
Sometimes i ask myself what is it all for??why have i been busting my balls all this time??.Like the day i trashed my board.God that was a black day.The surf was chrap 1foot in Manly but i said ill go out anyway.So me and the tanker(9'3")marched down to the beach. Then a set came in i let the guy to my left break right and i took the next one. Out of no where some knobend comes charging down on me in his surf boat thing,you know the long thing all the clubbies ride.Smash i was lucky but the board took a bad hit. I got it fixed for $80 and ive been riding it better everafter.Sounds odd but its true.
Still whats the point,heading up to Queensland and Snapper im sure ill run into some localisim xxxxx but you got to ride. Ill respect where im at and who is around me but at this stage local or no lacal my time and effort should be respected and,ill kill you,your dog,your cat and f*** your woman if you piss me off :shock: :evil: :twisted: :lol: :lol:
But still whats the point??? all the bad days all the wipe outs,for what???. Well for me its going to be that day here or in Ireland or Indo when it all comes good.Its the day when you look out at a wave and know in your heart "i can take this,i can smash this,all the work will pay off today". That day and days like it will happen.For some Surfers it could be just a average day but one guy will be sitting out the back thinking "that was the best wave of my life". I want to be able to have days like that to remember,i have and i will........
Like an old Maori man said to me in New Zealand "LIVE THE DREAM DAVE LIVE THE DREAM"
If you live up the east coast and have some tips for me sweet,Drop me a line at .... email@example.com