Otter wrote:Turtling is OK, but I prefer to dismount my board, grab it firmly at the tail, lift the tail so the nose goes under water and push it through the wave. Keep your arms outstreched so that you don't allow the board to break your noodle. Face the board directly into the wave, and allow the wave to break over the nose, it reduces the amount of force you get hit with, and the board acts like a knife, cutting a way through the wave which you just follow along. Of course, I'm a pretty fair sized guy, 6'4", 230lbs, and I've used this technique on some fairly large waves 18'-24' faces, works fine. Not sure how it might work for a little guy. Nice thing about this technique is that it gives you an opportunity to get thoroughly wet, get an idea of the power of the wave, see what's coming in after it, and to wait for a "lull" in the waves to paddle your butt off to get to the outside. It may take a bit longer, but it works!
Otter wrote:
Another thing, I don't allow the wave to break on TOP of my board, the wave is broken already before I use this technique. The last place I'm gonna get caught is in the impact zone when a big wave is spitting a lip with tons of water in it. Sheesh! No board can withstand that. .
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