I've been surfing on an 8' O'shea board since feb this year and have got to a level that I can ride down the face of a wave and put in a turn at the bottom going left or right. I have recently bought a 9'3" Tombstone longboard and I am struggling like hell. (I'm 6'2" and about 13 stone). It paddles out like a rocket, but when it comes to catching the wave it seems really slow, when I do catch a wave I pearl the front something rotten. So I have moved further back (so toes are in the water at the back of the board). When I do pop up it seems to just die and it feels really unstable (due to the fact it only has 1 fin and other board has 3) and I usually fall off.
Does anybody have any tips or suggestions as I went out for the first time in about 4 weeks due to extreme lack of surf and had the sh1ttest time I've ever had, while all the other longboarders where getting long rides