getting outside

[Roy Stewart]

Yes I do behindthepeak.

You fellows have obviously never rolled under the lip while going up the face of a medium to large wave. I know what you do instead and it isn't pretty !

In that situation paddling through the lip is a bad idea, as is rolling from the nose. It's not a subtle difference it's the difference between sliding through the wave with perfect technique and the failure of getting thrown back over the falls. I can explain exactly why if you like.

Jaffa if one grabs the board near the nose it isn't possible to pull the nose down as that prevents one from driving oneself under the water using the board's weight. I've seen people with mals doing what you do and it's a fiasco, they eventually get out if the surf isn't big which might possibly lead them to believe that they are doing the right thing, but it's an illusion.

When mal riders are faced with the paddle up the face of a breaking wave scenario described above which requires a roll thrusting the board through the lip from the tail, they almost always bail and rely on their leashes... hence the lack of knowledge regarding the correct way to roll.

Because i don't use a leash I've learnt the correct way to do it.
.

[jaffa1949]

NUH no leashes were not invented when I started surfing, I don't bail, I don't lose my board . I have successfully lived my experiences. There is however one area where Roy's method is correct for large volume ocean craft like his boards and for the old fashioned toothpick ski the rearmost,push the craft through the wave was an option some of the ski even had a handle to aid such an attempt.
Since I ride smaller 9ft boards I can and always have been able to roll under or punch through.

[beachbumuk]

Roy, the boards you seem to be talking about, (wooden i think you mentioned) are alot differant to ones ive used, tho a noob i teach other watersports, you talked about the weight of the board, there is no weight in my long board or the epoxys, only plastic or i would imagen wood, i sink liek a brick so happilly pull the nose of the board down when ever a wave goes over me.
again as a noobie, ive gone out in stuff to large for my experiance to surf, but never been cart wheeled or stripped as i drop down deep causing maximum drag, through the waves, somtimes messy sometimes clean. leads me to maybe thing its the TYPES of boards we are seeing differances in not by desgin but by material,
either way i thank you for your input as well as yours jaffa, and i will test out both to see which works for me.

[Roy Stewart]

NUH no leashes were not invented when I started surfing, I don't bail, I don't lose my board

. I have successfully lived my experiences.

There is however one area where Roy's method is correct for large volume ocean craft like his boards

Howzit Jaffa,

It's not a volume issue, and applies equally to boards of 9 feet.

Many of my boards are of low or moderate volume for their length, my nine to 12 foot boards are often only 2 inches thick and sometimes less.

It's possible that we are using similar technique and that your nose grabbing technique is closer to the middle than I think, in other words the difference could be a subtle one, we'd have to see each other do it in person to be certain.

[Roy Stewart]

Roy, the boards you seem to be talking about, (wooden i think you mentioned) are alot differant to ones ive used, tho a noob i teach other watersports, you talked about the weight of the board, there is no weight in my long board or the epoxys, only plastic or i would imagen wood, i sink liek a brick so happilly pull the nose of the board down when ever a wave goes over me.
again as a noobie, ive gone out in stuff to large for my experiance to surf, but never been cart wheeled or stripped as i drop down deep causing maximum drag, through the waves, somtimes messy sometimes clean. leads me to maybe thing its the TYPES of boards we are seeing differances in not by desgin but by material,
either way i thank you for your input as well as yours jaffa, and i will test out both to see which works for me.

Hello Beachbum, I have a friend who has negative buoyancy, he was a top swimmer and became a commercial diver but what surprises me is that you have negative buoyancy when wearing a wetsuit ( you do wear on in the UK?)

If you are rolling lightweight 9 footers under 20 pounds the situation is different .

[beachbumuk]

I'm not sure what she weighs, but in the summer I'm rarely in a suit, my 3/2 i float with the top of my head just on the waterline so i look like a hairy jellyfish and in a winter suit i just about float at chin hight.

[Roy Stewart]

Far out you must have heavy bones